Item #16584

AW05 Undercover “Arts and Crafts” Deconstructed Wool Sculpted Jacket

From Upstairs Garments

Undercover’s Autumn Winter 2005 "Arts and Crafts" is one of the many important pieces of work from Jun Takahashi’s early Paris years. Presented in the gilded ballroom of the Grand Hotel in Paris, the collection builds on his punk-inspired handwork and conceptual deconstruction while merging classical menswear tropes to challenge elegant and feminine connotations commonly associated with womenswear during that era. Jun distorted familiar menswear staples with felted surfaces, compressed layers, and surreal attachments that altered how garments sat on the body. Vest and jacket were fused directly into tops, scarves emerged organically from lapels, and feathers and frills were layered onto outerwear. Materials were consistently used against expectation, with corduroy, felt, and formal fabrics manipulated to disrupt balance and proportion. These techniques worked together to give the impression that clothing had been handled and reworked like arts and craft. The show then ended with a barrage of the most spectacular napoleon jackets. Seen in Look 40, this deconstructed jacket is constructed entirely from layered, monochrome wool panels and features vented underarms and pronounced back shoulder peaks. Tagged Size 1 Measurements: Shoulders 39cm Chest 45cm Hem 52cm Sleeve Length 57cm Length 71cm